The video department of the gourmet food publication, Bon Appétit, has become an unstoppable force over the past year since the release of its Gourmet Makes series. We take a look at why exactly the members of the Test Kitchen have had such an emotional impact on their audience.

Story by Laiken Neumann

Let’s set the scene: you find yourself bogged down with heaps of exams and projects, you’ve overbooked yourself with student org meetings, your work schedule is crammed into a any remaining time left, and you are, justifiably so, stressed out.

As you avoid the 50-page reading due tomorrow, you open YouTube and press play on a 30-minute Bon Appétit video in which Claire Saffitz and Brad Leone make donuts — and it is only part one of three. You are just getting started. You let the masterful cooking techniques, playful banter and clever editing whisk you away into a world in which midterms don’t exist.

Cooking itself can be an almost meditative stress-reliever. According to an article by HuffPost, going through the motions is a form of behavioral activation, which is psychologically proven to reduce stress. However, taking the time and energy to produce yourself a home-cooked meal is a feat that many college students, and adults in general, fail to keep up with on a regular basis.

In the age of “self care,” you’d think that we’d be lighting our stoves to cook for ourselves, rather than turning to YouTube videos to observe people cooking. Not only do the videos come at no cost, but pressing play on a computer is significantly easier than making something in the kitchen. We turn to the more passive option, for the sake of money and energy, searching for a bit of inspiration rather than a beautifully-plated, or, at the very least, nutritious meal.

It’s the pure inspiration, delivered by the authentic warmth of the shows’ chefs, that clock views on their video channel. Bon Appétit has been in print since 1956, but a widespread cultural love and an adoption into the wave of stan culture has only emerged recently.

The BA Test Kitchen content is nothing like the network television cooking shows we’ve seen before. Most popular cooking shows in recent years are competitive (see: The Great British Baking Show or Chopped). The show’s high stakes and aggressive atmospheres are more entertaining than they are relaxing. Even considering those that take on more of a talk-show format, Rachel Ray has nothing on Claire Saffitz.

A viewer favorite, Saffitz emanates a certain “cool aunt” energy. Her relatively chill demeanor is still susceptible to the normal ups-and-downs that come with cooking in the Test Kitchen. Her talent as a pastry chef shines through in her Gourmet Makes video series in which Saffitz is tasked with recreating a classic treat like Twinkies or Gushers, except this time with elevated flavors that still pay respect to the original. This requires patience and determination, but also knowledge of food science, all of which are extremely commendable on her part. Her sheer skill isn’t the only thing making the audience fall in love with her. Saffitz natural frustration when things don’t go as expected is, let’s face it, relatable.

The magic of Claire Saffitz, however, would not necessarily have the same effect on us without the overarching camaraderie that lingers throughout the Test Kitchen. What Bon Appétit does well, is keeping their videos exciting without making them stressful, mainly with the help of the people on screen. The greatest extent to which we feel stress is in certain episodes of Gourmet Makes. When Saffitz can’t figure out how to recreate a treat on par with her gourmet standards that is similar enough to the original, the audience shares her anxiety.

In one episode, Saffitz takes a stab at gourmet Sour Patch Kids. The nearly 40-minute long video results in extra-sour, extra-large versions of the candy, in the shape of gingerbread men. She is clearly discouraged, the most we’ve seen her throughout the series, and she didn’t even have to temper chocolate this time. However, she is met with the kindness of her coworkers as they test the gummies at the end of the video. The playfulness is still there; both Saffitz and her taste-testers know that these are not the desired result. But, they don’t push her too far, and commend her on what she has made, even if the result is more of a distant cousin to a Sour Patch Kid.

This interaction exemplifies why a large online community has developed an emotional soft spot for the members of the test kitchen: their wholesome genuity. The pure love and desire to support the BA Test Kitchen does not feel out of place in our cultural climate. This exaggerated sentiment of stan culture has manifested itself on the internet over the past few years, particularly in relation to celebrity crushes, as highlighted in an article from The Cut published earlier this year.

The hyperbolic nature in which we express our online obsessions (a la “I want Harry Styles to run me over with a truck”) seemingly carries over to our more wholesome internet love affairs. The “I would die for Claire from the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen” phenomenon (see: various compilation videos and this YouTube video) maintains a sense of genuine support for these wholesome heroes. In a broader context, the strong connection the internet has developed with the BA Test Kitchen reflects the common desperation for content that feels real.

There’s certainly a lot to owe to the BA Production Team in the videos’ success, as well. The videos would not harness the same magical tone without the swanky edits and sardonic subtitles; however, it all comes back to the genuine interactions between the editors.

If a Gourmet Makes episode were to only feature Claire, lacking the banter with Brad, the blatant, occasionally helpful, feedback of Chris and Andy, or Gaby’s angelic, mother-figure energy, it would not be the same. As can be seen in the comments of any recent Bon Appétit video, audience latch on to the Test Kitchen for even a sliver of joy delivered by the interactions between them. When put into the context of an online world filled with questionable content, it feels right that we would hold on to the first thing that radiates such a genuine and hopeful energy.